Hello E.,
Best of luck to you and your potential new dog. There have always been a few deal breakers with me when it comes to kids.
It would be GREAT to know if there is some bite history on this dog (either with people or other dogs) - question is - if and when this doggie bites - does he draw blood - require stitches from the hospital/vet? Knowing a bite level (there are 6 bite levels) would help to determine rehoming a dog with children. Knowing a bite history is both good and bad - good because you can determine the level of the dog's bite and whether or not to keep in a home with children (a level 1 and 2 bite I would keep in a home with children - barring other factors) Bad, because you know the dog has bitten and dog will probably use bite to get distance from "reason for bite" again. Fact is 1 out of 2 kids is bite by a dog - usually the family dog. However, even though the bite ratio is high with dogs, more kids are killed by their parents each year than dogs. I have a level 2 biter in my home - has bitten my daughter 4 times in 5 years (all bites happened when my daughter was under 2 years.) This was a dog that I had prior to children for 8 years - had little to no contact with children until our daughter was born. The really good news is that a dog acquires its "bite" in puppyhood. A good owner will actively work on bite inhibition (which is a soft bite - not a NO bite).
Another thing I like to know from adult dogs (and puppies) is possession. How likely and how much will a dog protect its food, toys, body and sleeping space? Possession comes in lots of 3 - if you have food/toy possession, likely you will have handling (don't touch me there) possession and sleeping possession too. Determining a dog's possession level can be tricky for the average dog owner, as I don't want anyone to get bit. However, I'd rather have the adult of the house get bit, then not ask the question and your children bit in a month or two. Possession comes in degrees of difficulty (the don't take it from me factor). Some items have little value and so the dog will not possess them nearly has aggressively as others that have a high factor - and every dog is different on what he thinks deserves a high rating. Some dogs will bite over a tennis ball, while other will only bite over a very yummy meat bone that they have been chewing for 5 minutes and have become very attached to. Some dogs will bite if their beds are touch by another dog/kid, while other must be sound asleep before they will bite when awoken.
Stop test and call a professional if you have any of the following signs:
Dog stiffens and puts nose into the bowl further/harder, growling, snaps.
Continue test if dog continues eating, seems a little stressed, but not stiffening up or growling.
Food test - yummy dry food with warm water - let the dog eat for about 1 minute and then try and pet. If petting goes well, remove bowl slowly. If that goes well, allow dog to eat again, and this time pet his cheek. If that goes well, take some food out of his bowl while he is eating.
Food test - yummy dry food with wet food - same test.
Food test - human food (left overs) that the dog REALLY likes.
Bone test - Bones have degrees of yummy value - the bone is easyiest to take away when first given to the dog and there is little time invested in the bone. Bones becomes more valuable when there is slobber and actual time invested on making it wet and chewable. Bones loses value when dog is near completion of chewing (dog's jaw get tired). Start test when dog has some investment in the bone (maybe a minute or two). It is important for the test to be done with a bone that the dog has an interest in. Some dogs find only certain bones worth biting over.
Stolen food test - stolen food/toys have a higher degree of value because we humans teach dogs that we will run after and "steal" the item away - giving it high level of value. Leave a paper towel soaked in something yummy and then dried low enough for the dog to "steal" - then try and take away. Start with something big like a paper towel and work towards something smaller like a candy wrapper.
If you are uncomforable doing any of these test, ask the rescue person if they have done them, or know someone who can help you.
Last little test is the hug test. Children LOVE to hug their doggies - can your little dog handle a 30 second hug from an adult?
Other little test that will sometimes push a dog to bite is teeth examination and toe nail examination.
Please be careful when doing any of these test as a dog bite can send you to the hospital for stitches and the dog to bite quarantine (required by law when a physician is involved).
If you are at all in doubt, let rescue find another home for him.
Positively,
M. Hughes
Woodinville, WA