K.B.
Gmail, very happy with it, love all te Google extras like Calendar, Chat and Drive.
ETA: good point at browser vs program. If you don't like the way it looks online, use a mail program. Outlook is the main Microsoft one but if it is not standard on your computer then you may not want to pay for it. On Mac it's called Mail. You plug in your account information and look at it there rather than online in a new format you don't like. Then you don't have to deal with switching to a new address.