Two Month Old Baby Bunny

my advice is to get him a litter box for every corner of whatever room he's allowed in. My bunny would go pee in a corner if there was no litter box.

I've had a rabbit as a pet for 11 years. My guy, Metra, has been a very important part of my family all this time, but he is a lot of work. Rabbits are not easy pets; they require more work than the average cat, but less than the average dog. A common assumption is that they are like small animals such as hamsters, and can be left alone in cages for long periods. Not true! Rabbits need exercise, and are social creatures. The quickest way to litter train is to put Timothy hay in a litter box. Their diet should primarily consist of a lot of Timothy hay, a small amount of greens, and unlimited fresh water. Dry pellets sold in pet stores are only to be eaten by either baby bunnies or older rabbits, and even then, sparingly. The best place for information is The House Rabbit Society. They have a book that is essential reading. Also, I board Metra with a woman in Hanover Park who is very knowledgable. Contact me if you need her name and number.

As he is still young, if you want to leash/harness train him, now is the time. My bunny used to run around with my cat too. They even had the same markings! :)

You need to observe areas that Sox is going pee/poo and put a litter box in that spot. Our bunny is not allowed freedom all day. We let her out for a few hours a day supervised by us. We have a female named "Floppy" She is a sweetheart, but will chew holes through any cord around the house if you leave her alone for a few minutes. That is why we can't let her have too much time outside of the cage by herself. She was always drawn to the litter box and never really liked going on the floor. She only had about two accidents when we got her two years ago. We use rabbit and gerbil litter from Target. I change it once every other day and she never goes on the floor of her cage. She is wonderful with our kids, now our cat and her are not friends though. Our cat is terrified and usually runs and hides when we let Floppy out. My daughter loves to walk her around in her baby carriage and they have tea parties together. My son loves to eat the parsley and cilantro with the rabbit. It is funny watching him feed Floppy and eat a piece himself too. He would divide it up saying "one piece for me and one for Floppy". They are wonderful pets and very easy to care for. Have fun and enjoy little Sox. I also forgot to mention that I did hear that boys will spray if you don't neuter them. You may want to get that done right away.

Some things I learned were that bunnies actually become easier to train as they age. My little guy does not leave little poops around he only goes downstairs in his little hutch. He only urinates in his litter box which is also in the downstairs portion of his hutch. We only reach inside to clean when he is out of his hutch playing. We never ever put him back in his hutch we ALWAYS allow him to hop back in when he chooses. This is supposed to make him view his hutch as a home not a cage. Since we don't want him out for hours on end we always have play time before he gets his dinner. If he is staying out too long we give a nudge by putting his food in his upstairs eating area. Oh and we have noticed that he gets mad if we don't keep his litter box clean. He will try to dump it or will go outside it. So we are very good at cleaning it daily. It is actually less work that way, just dump out the old litter into the trash. If we don't then we have to clean the floor of his hutch.

I had my bunny Bo for 7 years. He was wonderful in so many ways, but I still can't tell stories without crying, (5 years after he passed!), so I'm not going to here. I would like to pass on a couple tips that I learned that haven't been mentioned yet:
1) Be careful with wood chips. I think it was cedar that I heard was bad for bunnies.
2) Bunnies don't have a gag reflex, so they can't cough up a hairball like a cat can. Make sure you're giving plenty of veggies to help Sox's system digest/move out the fur he ingests while grooming himself. My Bo also got papaya tablets as treats after an experience with a hairball had him in the hospital overnight. The enzymes help.
3) Bunnies teeth never stop growing, so make sure he has plenty of safe, fun chew toys. Hopefully that will keep him from gnawing on your furniture, cords, etc. Bo loved toilet paper tubes. Just make sure there's no glue or adhesive on them.

I agree with what others said about neutering. It was unpleasant when Bo hit puberty. Much better after he was fixed! I hope your bunny brings you and your son many years of joy!

You don't say whether the rabbit is indoor or outdoor, regardless, the House Rabbit Society has lots of information on diet, care, training (and is geared to rabbits that are indoor house pets):
http://www.rabbit.org/

One tip: if you want to keep your rabbit away from things/prevent chewing on inappropriate things, do NOT use the Bitter Apple Spray. It will not work.

BTW, rabbits can be litter box trained (I haven't done it, but a friend has a house rabbit and they did).

I haven't had a bunny, but we did have guinea pigs and litter box trained them. I put the box in one corner of their cage and put a little bit of their stool in the box. That was really about all it took for them to learn where to go. Of course there was still a little here and there in the cage, but 99% of the urine was in the box, which was great. If the bunny already has one corner he likes to use, I would put it there. Have fun with your new bunny!

We have a one year old bunny (BunBun) who is a joy! I have heard that when they go through bunny puberty (about 4 months) they can be quite naughty--so it's best to get him neutered before then. We use wood pellets for the fire place for his litter (cheap and effective) and clean is box daily--just make sure there is nothing on the wood chips (like fire starter or something). He's got a big cage where his food and litter box are, but he isn't ever locked inside it. We also just let him wander around the house because he is normally quite well behaved--although he does like to eat the old wallpaper in our living room, but we are planning on removing it soon so it's not a big deal to us. Our bunny gets along great with our lab and our kitties although he's particularly friendly with one of our cats. We have a rule that you're not allowed to touch BunBun when he's in his cage, but he's rarely in it any more. I'm not sure how we potty trained him. He had been in a cage for many months before we got him so I just cleaned the cage thoroughly and put a box where he seemed to be peeing and pooping the most and though he does have the occasional accident he's really pretty good about getting it in the box (well his pee) he poops on the bottom of the cage. I honestly don't know if this is good for him or not, but he LOVES treats--you can say treat and he comes hopping up the stairs--he likes raisins and dried apricots the best--he sort of grunts when he gets them he likes them so much! I've heard that bunnies can be a little hit and miss in terms of behavior so here's to hoping you got one that can really be free to be part of the family!

I'm a new bunny owner - have had my two buns since February. I adopted a 3 year old female - Sparkles, an English Spot - and her 9 month old daughter - Snooper, English Spot/mix from the shelter. They were bonded. During the day while I'm at work, they're in a very large exercise pen in my rec room - it's 12' x 4'. They are very happy in it - I put some boxes for them to play in and chew on and a large tube you'd use for pouring cement (recommended from House Rabbit Society and very cheap). Mine both were litter trained when I got them. They sometimes leave an occasional poop near their pen when they're outside of it, but generally not an issue.

I let them out for 1.5 hours each night around the rec room. Snooper is mischievous and like a puppy - always getting into stuff. I bought this tubing with a slit in it from the AutoZone to cover all of my cords - since I did that, no problem. Also, it is important when you let them roam to have things for them to do - branches to chew on, a box of leaves, things to climb on - this will help reduce the amount of damage they do chewing on other things. Mine were nibbling on my baseboards, but as soon as I put other things out for them to do, it's not been a problem. They also like blankets and rearranging things, digging, chewing. I just took some cardboard boxes and cut a little "u" in the side so they could get in and out and then put some newspaper in there, some branches, some leaves - and they love it. It's different from what they have in their pen all day, so it's fun and exciting. I buy timothy hay by the bale from Bob's Salt and Feed in West Chicago. Really, buns should get tons of hay - as much as they want, and a few cups of greens every day. Pellets aren't necessary - and be careful with treats, they should only have very small amounts of carrots, apples, fruit, etc.

I have two kitties -both around 10 lbs - and my buns are 7 and 9 lbs. One cat generally doesn't like them, but watches them from a distance. The other cat wants to play with the buns, but the buns are not too interested. They sniff noses, etc., but that's about it. I deliberately got big buns because of the cats - didn't want them to think they could eat them - both of my cats are mousers. But all's well.